Taiss/ 1Pcs LJ8A3-2-Z/AX-5V M8 2mm Sensing DC 5V NPN NC 3D Printer Cylinder inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Work Voltage 5VDC Special for MCU

My original Prusa sensor died in less than a year. I was able to replace it with this sensor in a few minutes.If you are comfortable with crimping small wires, you need a 3 position "dupont" connector shell and three female pins. Watch the orientation when reconnecting - black wire goes on the left looking at the back of the printer. Odds are good that your pins won't fit into the Prusa shell. I'm not sure exactly which connector they use, but it isn't quite exactly the same as a "dupont" connector.If you are not comfortable with small crimps, your best bet is probably a 3-position "euro style" terminal strip. Cut the original sensor wire on the sensor end. Break out the internal wires and feed them into one side of the terminal strip. Then connect the new one on the other side, matching color for color. This will preserve the original keyed connector that plugs in to the MMU2S board while making future sensor changes quick and easy.This is about the same cost as the genuine part from Prusa. In my opinion, the Prusa sensor's wire is too short by about an inch, putting too much stress on a joint somewhere. If I'm right, and assuming that his part isn't crap, the replacement should outlast the original thanks to the extra cable length. I'll try to remember to come back and update this if/when it fails.

LED indicator doesn't work upon arrival. The sensor itself does still work for now, but I'm not getting my hopes up that it lasts based on it already partially not working.

My Prusa stopped calibrating for the Z Axis, and I found it to be the P.I.N.D.A sensor had failed. I looked around for a replacement that I could get within a few days. I know China sells them for around $3-$4 each, but who wants to wait a month to get started printing again? So I ordered this one based on previous reviews. Very glad I did. I got it in within 2 days as is usual for Amazon Prime.The sensor is longer than the original P.I.N.D.A sensor, but still fit without any modification to the extruder mount. I did have to solder the wires to the plug in for the motherboard, but that was OK. All that matters is that I'm back in business and it works perfectly.Be careful not to over-tighten the mount screw, as this can cause the sensor to malfunction randomly. Perhaps there are moving parts inside? Snug is enough.

Bought this for my Anet A8. Sensor stopped working within 2 days of install. First off the LED indicator never worked, however it was still sensing objects so I wired it up. wiring it was a hassle. It would be nice if they provided a connector of some kind to work with. after that it started inconsistently failing on bed level cycles and eventually crashed my print head into the bed when auto homing. Tried troubleshooting to no avail. now it just reads as always triggered when i try to test it. So its dead completely and its been less than a week since install. not to happy with this. I've essentially paid for 2 days of headache and have an offline printer in the meantime while I search for a new leveling solution. Ended up returning the sensor for a replacement which happened to show up with the same problems as the first one. Returned for a full refund. I will not be buying and of these for any projects ever again, nor would I ever recommend them. Went elsewhere and found a 12V solution for my printer. It was a little extra wiring but it worked out of the box and I had it running in less than a day.

now the first one was DOA and got fixed 2 days and i was up and running but for some reason my marlin firmware was giving me problem like when doing a m119 command i get zmin stop and zprobe stop zmin would work but probe would stay triggered and i diddnt need that since it was using the end stop pin anyway so i removed //#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe. and the zprobe stop went away from my m119 command and i could level the bed

Working great on my Prusa MK3S+ printer (as the FINDA sensor on the MMU2S).As other reviews have mentioned:- Make sure to order the NC (Normally Closed) version- this does not include a connector at the end (I used the connector from my old sensor; and resoldered; color codes of the wires match)Cannot speak to longevity yet, but the sensor calibrated easily as one would hope, and my printer is back up.

Bought this as a replacement for my original Prusa PINDA. The Prusa brand replacement was taking too long in the mail, so I ordered this one.Be sure if you are ordering for a Prusa MK2 that you order the NC normal closed version. I first bought the NO normal open version, and it failed calibration.The NC model worked perfect. I spliced the wires on the new sensor to the old pinda connector. I’m sure there is a more proper method, but it worked.Can’t speak to longevity, but calibration and first layer cal were great.

Dye after a week. Turn the printer off one dy next day nothing work...